“My design team is like, ‘Pretty is not always so bad.’ But I don’t want pretty! Sometimes I want it to be ugly. “I want the men’s collection to be as feminine as possible and the women’s collection to be as masculine as possible, because I love the idea of men’s and women’s worlds becoming connected,” Browne explains. A gentle smile of satisfaction appears at his lips. Browne looks closely as she turns around, then doffs the first of her two coats. Wide, high-hemmed trousers hang at garter height, below her underpants. The model, Helen Henderson, appears, wearing a pink taffeta coat over a second, powder blue Oxford coat with a pale green striped tie. Since launching his distinctive line 20 years ago, Browne has yet to be spotted in a sub-impeccable state. It hardly bears mentioning-and yet seems impossible not to mention-that, on one of the hottest, haziest days of New York’s late summer, Browne is dressed impeccably: a light gray cardigan vest with the top two buttons fastened, a pale seersucker tie with stripes on the diagonal, a matching pair of pressed shorts, and a pristine white shirt. They are reviewing looks for their October show Browne is quietly attentive, with his glasses riding high on his nose. Across the marble table, a design director, Thi Wan, sits with a thick sheaf of sketches. Thom Browne is sitting in his office, waiting for a model to appear.
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